2024 Lioco - Pinot Noir Mendocino (750ml)

Lioco was conceived in the alley behind Spago Beverly Hills by wine director Kevin O'Connor and wine salesman Matt Licklider. Critical of the heavy-handed wines dominant at the time, the two wondered whether it was possible to make local wines favoring nuance over sheer power, and in 2005, relying on their palates and their contacts, they set out on a winemaking journey inspired by Europe and the more restrained California wines of the 1980s. Today the winery is owned and operated by husband-and-wife team Matt and Sara Licklider, working out of a state-of-the-art cooperative winemaking facility in Santa Rosa.

This bottling draws on a selection of premier Mendocino County vineyards emphasizing dry-farming, older vines, and sustainable viticulture, built from Pinot Noir clones 115, 667, 777, 2A, Pommard, Beaujolais, and Martini. The 2024 wine spans the entire county, from Potter Valley in the interior to the remote coastal hamlet of Comptche, incorporating fruit from Anderson Valley, Cole Ranch, and Potter Valley alongside the newer Comptche source. The Anderson Valley component contributes characteristic purple berry and red floral notes, Cole Ranch adds structure and grip, and Potter Valley's rare Beaujolais-clone fruit lends high tones to the blend.

The finished wine presses out layers of dark cherry, incense, graphite, and chalk in a slightly somber, brooding frame. It pulls tight on a powdery finish, leaving behind an echo of herbs and a chewy sensation. On the palate expect a soft, dusty texture, juicy, mouthwatering acidity, and a spicy, persistent finish, with bright red berry aromatics of strawberry and wild cherry balanced by a savory undercurrent of forest floor and dried rose.

This youthful wine benefits from a little time to open, but shows the elements of a well-balanced, transparent, terroir-driven Mendocino Pinot Noir. Pair with roast chicken, mushroom dishes, or grilled salmon.