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While everyone yanks the wheel to the right, doing ever-more dry wines, Lauer holds his own course, providing for us new treasures for our campaign: “Spätlese is the new Kabinett.” Some say Spätlese is the heart of the vintage; I’m not 100% sure but this is delicious, light and zingy and refreshing. Dinner Spätlese – not for dessert.
The 2023 Riesling Ayler Kupp Stirn No. 15, picked on the crest of the
Ayler Kupp at almost 275 meters, benets from a south-facing but cool
and ventilated location. Old vines yield tiny grapes and an airy sense of
ripe peach and apricot rises dreamily f...
“Barrel X” is winemaker Florian Lauer’s Platonic ideal of what a slightly off-dry (feinherb) Saar Riesling should be. If we were in Burgundy, this would be the equivalent of a “Bourgogne Blanc.” As an appellation-level wine, it is sourced from multiple vineyards in four different villages of the Saar: Ayl (Lauer’s home village), Saarburg, Wawern and Wiltingen. Florian says, “From Ayl and Wawern, the wine gains the fruit and power, from Saarburg the racy acidity, and from Wiltingen, the spice.”
Regardless of what comes from where, this much is certain: dollar for dollar, I’m not sure there is a 750ml bottle that delivers as much joy and zing. This is the gateway drug to Lauer, to the Saar, to Riesling… be careful. Very addictive.
The 2022 Spätburgunder Dernau Pfarrwingert GG pleases with perfect fruit ripeness and nuances of licorice, very fine slate notes and floral aromas in an elegant, fresh, wonderfully balanced and delicate bouquet. Dense, fresh, very elegant and stimulatingl...
An off-dry riesling beauty with very attractive white-flower and white-fruit aromas, a hint of green-apple freshness lifting the medium-bodied palate. Precise balance at the long, clean finish. Drink or hold.
The 2020 Riesling Scharzhofberger Spätlese A.P. #6 reflects numerous
parcels and pickings with largely healthy fruit but slight botrytis influence.
Quince and white peach hover between fresh and jellied, overlain with
heady, musky perfume of peony and ...
This wonderful Mosel Kabinett has a wide spectrum of white tree fruit, wild berry and herb aromas. Impressive concentration on the very focused light-bodied palate. I love the racy acidity and pronounced slatey minerality that is wrapped around the very l...
The 2023 Graacher Himmelreich Spätlese is very intense and open on the complex and saline nose that is reminiscent of crushed slate rocks as well as ripe and intense, dense citrus fruit intermingled with lemon aromas. Round and refined on the palate, this...
The 2022 Riesling Birkweiler Kastanienbusch Grosses Gewächs is from
the Permian conglomerations. This is scented and the only GG that
shows more of itself. There is almost a sense of passion fruit with its
fruity yet tart aromatic allure. Riper notions...
The 2023 Graacher Domprobst Riesling Kabinett #3 opens with a clear and coolish, very precise and flinty as well as vegetal bouquet of dark, crushed slate. Very elegant and mouthwatering on the palate, with lively, mineral acidity and stimulating salinity...
