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The Grand Cru dry wines of Weiser-Künstler are among the most cerebral dry Rieslings made in the Mosel. They are wines of meditation, wines that seem to have something more to do with distillates or teas made from stone, ore and flower. They have very little easy fruit to hang one’s hat on. In other words, they are among the most thrilling wines from this fabled place.
The 2022er Trarbacher Schlossberg Riesling Kabinett was made from fruit harvested at 82° Oechsle and was fermented down to fruity-styled levels of residual sugar (51 g/l). It offers a beautiful even if still quite backward nose of made earthy elements, yeast, and only gradually fresher notes of citrus, cassis, elderflower, and whipped cream. The wine offers a nice creamy feel of fresh fruits and ginger wrapped into ripe acidity on the palate. A great kick of zet adds freshness in the long finish. This textbook Kabinett is superbly playful and enjoyable.
The Riesling Weiser-Künstler, as it is referred to on the main label (the reference to the vintage is left for the back label), is a barely off-dry wine (with 18 g/l of residual sugar) made from Estate’s holdings and from grapes sourced at a befriended organic grower in the Enkircher Steffensberg. It offers a fresh and joyful nose of anise, minty herbs, vineyard peach, as well as plenty of spices. The wine comes initially over as delicately smooth and juicy yet the acidity quickly joins the party and gives focus and presence to the wine. The finish is already dry in taste as the racy acidity brings animating freshness.