The 2019 Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Kabinett is very clear and flinty on the still-reductive yet very precise and spring-like nose. Juicy and light on the palate, this is an intense, fruity, salty-piquant and stimulating Kabinett with the gorgeous fruit...
“Barrel X” is winemaker Florian Lauer’s Platonic ideal of what a slightly off-dry (feinherb) Saar Riesling should be. If we were in Burgundy, this would be the equivalent of a “Bourgogne Blanc.” As an appellation-level wine, it is sourced from multiple vineyards in four different villages of the Saar: Ayl (Lauer’s home village), Saarburg, Wawern and Wiltingen. Florian says, “From Ayl and Wawern, the wine gains the fruit and power, from Saarburg the racy acidity, and from Wiltingen, the spice.”
Regardless of what comes from where, this much is certain: dollar for dollar, I’m not sure there is a 750ml bottle that delivers as much joy and zing. This is the gateway drug to Lauer, to the Saar, to Riesling… be careful. Very addictive.
While everyone yanks the wheel to the right, doing ever-more dry wines, Lauer holds his own course, providing for us new treasures for our campaign: “Spätlese is the new Kabinett.” Some say Spätlese is the heart of the vintage; I’m not 100% sure but this is delicious, light and zingy and refreshing. Dinner Spätlese – not for dessert.