It's not often that the prestigious Penin Guide, Spain's most highly regarded wine review compendium, gives 88 points to such an inexpensive wine, but Chaval is an extraordinary Bobal, Valencia's perfect summer red. Initial fermentation is long and slow ...
The 2018 Chianti Classico Berardenga is endowed with so much class. In 2018, the Classico is a bit more restrained than it can be. That mid-weight sense of structure, though, gives the wine quite a bit of early appeal. Even so, I would cellar the 2018 fo...
The 2017 Chianti Classico Riserva is a total knock-out. Sumptuous and enveloping, but with plenty of structure to support it all, the 2017 captures all the best elements of the house style. Succulent black cherry, worn-in leather, smoke, licorice and espr...
The 2019 Maximin Grunhaus Abtsberg Riesling Kabinett is pure, fresh and stony on the floral/herbal and even flinty-scented nose. On the palate, this is a concentrated yet fresh and piquant, tensioned and crystalline Abtsberg Kabinett with juicy fruit and ...
“Barrel X” is winemaker Florian Lauer’s Platonic ideal of what a slightly off-dry (feinherb) Saar Riesling should be. If we were in Burgundy, this would be the equivalent of a “Bourgogne Blanc.” As an appellation-level wine, it is sourced from multiple vineyards in four different villages of the Saar: Ayl (Lauer’s home village), Saarburg, Wawern and Wiltingen. Florian says, “From Ayl and Wawern, the wine gains the fruit and power, from Saarburg the racy acidity, and from Wiltingen, the spice.”
Regardless of what comes from where, this much is certain: dollar for dollar, I’m not sure there is a 750ml bottle that delivers as much joy and zing. This is the gateway drug to Lauer, to the Saar, to Riesling… be careful. Very addictive.
While everyone yanks the wheel to the right, doing ever-more dry wines, Lauer holds his own course, providing for us new treasures for our campaign: “Spätlese is the new Kabinett.” Some say Spätlese is the heart of the vintage; I’m not 100% sure but this is delicious, light and zingy and refreshing. Dinner Spätlese – not for dessert.