From the Monção e Melgaço sub-region of northern Portugal, the natural home of the alvarinho grape, and made by one of its finest producers, who uses a little skin contact (hence the name) to give structure to this invigorating linear dinner-table white.
The 2012 Viña Bosconia Reserva is perhaps a little too young (María José López de Heredia likes more polished wines, and for her this wine was too tough), with some tannins and the chalky texture from the limestone soils. This blend of Tempranillo with 15...
The 2011 Viña Tondonia Reserva is darker and shows riper fruit, a rounder palate and some dusty tannins. A year of ripeness, concentration and tannin, the wine is powerful with the finesse of Tondonia. Tasting this next to the textbook 2010 Tondonia revea...
The textbook 2023 Albariño de Fefiñanes has an expressive varietal nose of white flowers, fruit and herbs. It has good ripeness and development of aromas and flavors, 13% alcohol and balancing acidity. It finishes with a faint bitter twist.