June 18, 2024
The list is complete.
The campaign has now come to an end with every Chateau releasing their prices. Figeac and La Conseillante both came out at a very attractive price (Figeac down 40% from 2022) and the consensus wine of the vintage Montrose is a great buy at $155. Take another stroll through the list... the amount of good buys from blue chip Chateau is pretty staggering! As always please don’t’ hessite to reach out if you have any questions.
June 6, 2024
Lots of highly-anticipated big releases this week (at very sharp pricing!). Headlined by my pick for first growth of the vintage- Chateau Margaux and the always amazing Carmes Haut Brion. Carmes almost has a cult like following and it's proven to be an excellent buy en primeur as it has consistently gone up in price. At $110 this is a super buy (the 2022 was $159) and I expect it to sell out. Same can be said about the Pichon Comtesse and Pichon Baron-both are well priced and fantastic in 2023.
Others that deserve your attention-Giscours (best wine ever from this Chateau) . The always wonderful Chanel owned Rauzan Segla and Canon and last but not least the epic Palmer which was simply mind bending vino!
April 18, 2024
This week has been very busy in Bordeaux with quite a few releases. The Chateau continue to lower their prices (in many cases down 30-40% from 2022) and we have quite a few wines at or near 2019 levels. Certainly some great deals here at all price points. On the higher end of the spectrum Haut Brion and La Mission are at 2019 pricing (if you're like me you are kicking yourself for not buying the 2019-here's another chance!). Lynch Bages -superb wine/superb price, Ducru B same thing. Leoville Barton showed very well both times I tasted it and we have two of my "sleeper" bargain value plays on the list-Fieuzal and Mangot. Also, the potential 100 pt Suduiraut which is absolutely stunning. Finally a special mention for Pape Clement. This is easily the best wine they've made here in quite some time. It blew me away all three times I tasted it. It's right there with the LMHB. I kid you not.
April 30, 2024
I’ve just returned from a week in Bordeaux tasting the 2023 wines “en primeur”. I wasn’t quite sure what to expect as I had heard many different things about the vintage. One thing seemed consistent in the message-it was quite variable (even in the same appellation) so best to come taste for yourself and see.
I’m happy to say that 2023 has turned out very well for many, many Estates. The wines were very easy to taste and quite a contrast to the more voluptuous 2022’s. As Guillaume Pouthier of Carmes Haut Brion told me “this is a very unique vintage, in that the wines will be able to be enjoyed at a relatively young age but will easily age very, very well”. The best of the 2023’s are open knit, and the tannins are very finely managed. You can dive deep into the glass and realize that all the stuffing is there-it’s just a bit less obvious in this vintage. The wines tend to be more “linear” if that makes sense. One of the best wines I tasted, Chateau Margaux could have easily been enjoyed at dinner that eve (too bad they wouldn’t let me take the bottle home) but there’s no doubt it’s a 30 plus year wine.
For the wines of the Medoc, Cabernet was king in 2023 as many estates suffered mildew issues with their Merlot. Many wines have a much larger percentage of Cabernet than usual, and this leads to the more sort of “classic” character in this vintage. Merlot fared better on the right bank of course, but like last year I’m seeing more and more wines with higher percentages of Cabernet Franc in the blend and this is nothing but a good thing.
I was able to attend a few negociant tastings to re-taste many wines (as well as taste wines from Chateau I was unable to visit). More so than in past years, you could really feel the difference in terroir when you went from say Margaux to Pauillac. This is not always so evident in tasting barrel samples. The sense of place really shines through in 2023.
William Kelly of the Wine Advocate sums things up very nicely and I agree 100%...
"Bordeaux’s 2023 vintage is a fascinating paradox. While the year was one of the warmest in recorded history, it wasn’t very sunny—in contrast with recent warm vintages such as 2022, 2020, 2019 and 2018. Between May and September, the growing season was dry; yet 2023 was also defined agronomically, as it was in the media, by periods of intense rainfall. And if recent warm growing seasons have tended to begin early and finish early, though 2023 may have begun with an early budbreak, the time between flowering and harvest was entirely classic, permitting leisurely hang time. The young wines, tasted from cask, reflect this paradox, possessing—at their best—the depth, density and ripe tannin of a sunny vintage but also the vibrant, expressive aromas and flavors of a more traditionally “Atlantic” season. The best 2023s are just as exciting as the best 2022s, even if the vintage is more varied in quality and style; yet the final paradox is that, due to a cool global economy and two consecutive lukewarm en primeur campaigns, the 2023s may be released at prices as interesting as any we have seen since 2019."
I hope the Chateaux listened to the message about pricing from myself and just about every other merchant! Phil Bernstein General Manager
*First growths and “big” St. Emilion and Pomerol wines will come in wood three packs. All other wines will be in wood six packs.
My Top 10 wines (not in order):
- Montrose
- Margaux
- Palmer
- VCC
- Lafite
- Carmes Haut Brion
- Beausajour Duffau
- Cheval Blanc
- Figeac
- Pichon Comtesse
Always solid wines you shouldn’t miss:
- Anything starting with the word “Leoville” (Poyferre especially was quite delicious!)
- Branaire
- Haut Bailly
- Giscours
- Larcis Ducasse
- Coutet (2023 was very good for Sauternes and Barsac)
- Gruaud Larose
- Pape Clement
Under the radar sleepers:
- Tronquoy
- Berliquet
- La Tour Figeac
- Mangot
- La Pointe
- Rouget
2023 Chateau Lynch Bages - Pauillac (Bordeaux Future ETA 2026)
The flagship 2023 Château Lynch-Bages is based on 71% Cabernet Sauvignon, 24% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc, and the rest Petit Verdot, resting in 75% new French oak. One of the biggest, richest wines in the vintage, it’s deep purple-hued and offers up some c...
2023 Chateau Malartic Lagraviere - Pessac (Bordeaux Future ETA 2026)
Very pretty and polished with blackberry, blueberry and ink character, as well as a hint of hazelnut. It’s medium-bodied with well-integrated tannins to the fruit. Fine and flavorful finish
2023 Chateau Malartic Lagraviere BLANC - Pessac (Bordeaux Future ETA 2026)
A beautifully structured and complex white with pristine, bright citrus fruit and an exotic touch. There’s a mineral character to it, too, with oyster-shell and crushed-stone notes. It’s medium- to full-bodied with racy acidity that adds energy and tensio...
2023 Chateau Mangot - St. Emilion (Bordeaux Future ETA 2026)
Another beautiful wine from this perpetually improving property, the 2023 Château Mangot delivers aromas of blackberries and mulberries mingled with hints of licorice, pencil shavings, bay leaf and violets. Medium to full-bodied, deep and layered, with a ...
2023 Chateau Margaux - Margaux MAGNUM (Bordeaux Future ETA 2026) (1.5L)
2023 Chateau Margaux - Margaux (Bordeaux Future ETA 2026)
The 2023 Château Margaux is fabulous. Sensual, silky and exceptionally polished, the 2023 Château Margaux is shaping up to be a classic. Seamless, silky tannins wrap around a core of dark red/purplish fruit. Hints of spice, new leather, menthol, licori...
2023 Chateau Mauvesin Barton - Moulis-en-Medoc (Bordeaux Future ETA 2026)
Inky ruby colour, another vintage that underlines how impressively Mauvesin Barton has been doing over the past few years. Delivers brambled blackberry fruit and balanced but clear toasted spices, austere on the finish, this heads towards closing in, but ...
2023 Chateau Montrose - St. Estephe (Bordeaux Future ETA 2026)
The 2023 Montrose is another brilliant wine from an estate that's now routinely among Bordeaux's very best, year in, year out. A blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 21% Merlot and 4% Cabernet Sauvignon, derived exclusively from the estate's historic core on ...
2023 Chateau Montrose - St. Estephe HALF BOTTLE (Bordeaux Future ETA 2025) (375ml)
The 2023 Montrose is another brilliant wine from an estate that's now routinely among Bordeaux's very best, year in, year out. A blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 21% Merlot and 4% Cabernet Sauvignon, derived exclusively from the estate's historic core on ...
2023 Chateau Mouton Rothschild - Pauillac MAGNUM (Bordeaux Future ETA 2026) (1.5L)
High Cabernet, and the grape is dominant not just in blend but character, totally delicious, with tension, flesh, and confidence, building layers of black fruits, graphite, cocoa bean, espresso, pomegranate and smoked earth throughout the palate. When Cab...
2023 Chateau Mouton Rothschild - Pauillac (Bordeaux Future ETA 2026)
High Cabernet, and the grape is dominant not just in blend but character, totally delicious, with tension, flesh, and confidence, building layers of black fruits, graphite, cocoa bean, espresso, pomegranate and smoked earth throughout the palate. When Cab...
2023 Chateau Palmer Margaux (Bordeaux Future ETA 2026)
A breathtaking wine, the 2023 Palmer is sensational. Inky, rich and explosive, the 2023 is a real head-turner. Readers will find an extroverted, dense Palmer that is immediately captivating. Here, too, the balance is mind-blowing. Ample and resonant, the ...
2023 Chateau Pape Clement - Pessac (Bordeaux Future ETA 2026)
The 2023 Pape Clément is one of the most exciting wines I have tasted here in a long time, maybe ever. Intensely aromatic and layered, the 2023 is simply stunning. Dried flowers, mint, licorice, mocha, cedar and tobacco soar out of the glass. The purity o...
2023 Chateau Pavie - St. Emilion MAGNUM (Future ETA 2026) (1.5L)
The Grand Vin 2023 Château Pavie is based on 51% Merlot, 32% Cabernet Franc, and the rest Cabernet Sauvignon that was brought up in 72% new oak. It's a more inward, serious effort that has a layered bouquet of ripe red and black fruits, spicy oak, spring ...
2023 Chateau Pavie Macquin - St. Emilion HALF BOTTLE (Bordeaux Future ETA 2026) (375ml)
The 2023 Pavie Macquin is one of the stars of the vintage. An exceptional, vibrant wine, Pavie Macquin dazzles from start to finish. Seamless tannins wrap around a core of inky red/purplish fruit, lavender, mint, spice and blood orange, all framed by b...
2023 Chateau Pavie Macquin - St. Emilion (Bordeaux Future ETA 2026)
The 2023 Pavie Macquin is one of the stars of the vintage. An exceptional, vibrant wine, Pavie Macquin dazzles from start to finish. Seamless tannins wrap around a core of inky red/purplish fruit, lavender, mint, spice and blood orange, all framed by b...
2023 Chateau Phelan Segur - St. Estephe (Bordeaux Future ETA 2026)
The polish and intensity of this wine is beautiful for the vintage, with blackcurrant, lead pencil and light chocolate character. It’s medium- to full-bodied with well-integrated fruit and tannins, and a long finish. Velvet texture. Excellent potential. F...
2023 Chateau Pichon Baron - Pauillac HALF BOTTLE (Bordeaux Future ETA 2026) (375ml)
A blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Merlot, the 2023 Pichon-Longueville Baron is a terrific effort from this estate, unwinding in the glass with aromas of crème de cassis, dark berries, pencil shavings, cigar wrapper, violets and burning embers. Med...