The epitome of delicacy in a Spätlese. It is in no way a dry wine, yet the tart and salty vibrations might make parts of your brain think it is? This is supremely focused and clear, with a slim form attenuated into something almost gossamer. Just outrageous. Again, dinner Spätlese – not for dessert.
Vollenweider is quite simply, among the greatest practitioners of Kabinett on planet earth, part of a very small and elite group including Julian Haart, Egon Müller, Keller, Weiser-Künstler and Willi Schaefer – the young Julian Ludes of Hermann Ludes may join the ranks soon enough, but right now these are my five. Try and buy as much of this as you can.
-Importer notes (Vom Boden)
The Goldgrube Spätlese 2023, as it is referred to on the consumer label, was harvested on very old un-grafted vines in the Portz sector of the vineyard, a south-west facing and higher up the hill vineyard and was fermented down to sweet levels of residual sugar. It has a quite restrained yet refined and elegant nose of fine yellow peach, smoke, almond, may tree, lime tree, candied grapefruit, and anise. The wine shows a delicate juicy and smooth side on the palate, where fine creamy elements add to the overall suavity. The finish is velvety and very pure, and above all shows an animating freshness. This is a filigreed and refined Spätlese.
-Mosel Fine Wines
25% Saborinho, 25% Agronomica, 25% Aragones, 25% Touriga Nacional. This is a micro-production wine from the tiny island of Pico in the Azores. It is Sustainably grown in tiny plots (2 to 6 bush trained vines per square) planted in 1991 in volcanic soil at sea level, less than 50m from the Atlantic. This terroir and the varietal imbue this wine with incredible minerality and purity, as well as unmistakable salinity. Perhaps the most maritime rosé in existence.
Another bad-ass wine and one of the inspirations for our new campaign: “Spätlese is the new Kabinett.” I ask Florian how it’s selling. He says, “good,” and then adds this funny but honest line: “The Spätlese isn’t sweet here.” Seventy-four grams of residual sugar and it tastes almost dry. I don’t understand anything.
Note this is the single 2022 offering in our release of the 2023 vintage. Most estates, including Lauer, hold back quantities of certain wines for fun, for a rainy day, or because they just feel like the wine needs more time. In the case of this wine, it was held back for all of these reasons. A small tranche is being released to us now simply to fill up this offer a bit. Feel free to review my thoughts on Lauer’s 2022ers, readable here. I *love* them.
Since 2022, the VDP has classified Ayler Scheidterberg as a Erste Lage or “Premier Cru”. This site is very sheltered southern exposure that allows a slow and long ripening deep into autumn. Stony-fresh and dense core that is remarkably playful and relatively open in it’s youth.
While everyone yanks the wheel to the right, doing ever-more dry wines, Lauer holds his own course, providing for us new treasures for our campaign: “Spätlese is the new Kabinett.” Some say Spätlese is the heart of the vintage; I’m not 100% sure but this is delicious, light and zingy and refreshing. Dinner Spätlese – not for dessert.