What’s most striking about Malleron’s bottle—something the Sancerre obsessives will pick up on from the first sip—is the texture. Yes, this wine has the flinty minerality and floral bouquet. Yes, it’s got the straight line of bright, clean flavors and zippy acidity. But Malleron’s bottle is bolstered with a bit more ripeness—and combined with all of the above, it equals Sancerre at its best.
The 2015 Bouchet is in a gorgeous spot right now where it is starting to show some of the complexity that develops in bottle. Petrol, ginger, baking spices, orange peel and hazelnut are nicely laced together, with bright saline notes that wrap it all toge...