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The 2021 Barbaresco Basarin is a dense, rich wine. Macerated cherry,
plum, lavender, rose petals, spice and new leather are all dialed up.
The natural intensity of the year comes through in this decidedly dark,
intense Barbaresco. A return to super-cla...
The 2021 Barbaresco Cottá is one of the most forward wines in this
range, as it so often is. Aromatically expressive and light on its feet, the
2021 delivers tons of flavor intensity, but without excess weight. A
return to more traditional winemaking h...
The 2020 Barbaresco Cottá is dense, powerful and closed in on itself. Black
cherry, plum, spice, menthol, mocha and earthiness add to an impression
of gravitas. Huge tannins give this potent, brooding wine a great deal of
structure. This impressive, yo...
There's an exotic flair to the 2018
Amarone della Valpolicella Classico
Sant'Urbano as foreign spices, dusty
dried roses, red currants and blood
orange hints form its bouquet. This is
supple and enveloping with
stimulating acidity that adds an
ener...
The Palmberg is Stein’s “Grand Cru” and a vineyard to measure against any other vineyard in the Mosel, period. It is an awesome site, an ancient wall of vines filled with ungrafted plantings that are 90+ years old. The Palmberg is cut on one side by a stream, so the vineyard angles away from the Mosel. In former times this was likely a liability, the cool wind pouring down the valley and the distance from the river keeping optimum ripeness in all but the top vintages just beyond grasp. This is no longer an issue and these cooler vineyards, especially when they have old vines, are a massive asset. This wine is ruthless, cut, mineral, fresh and phenolic. It is quite simply one of my favorite wines of this vintage and it will age, easily, for 10-20+ years.
Consider this Stein’s “1er Cru” vineyard; though it’s a 1er Cru vineyard with 70 to 80+ year-old ungrafted vines and a serious terroir of mostly blue slate. This is the “other” Himmelreich and similar to its more famous sibling in Graach, the wines from this site always show a slimmer profile, a pronounced mineral fine-ness and lift. With only about 15 grams RS (just beyond dry), this is a wildly restrained and chiseled, old-school “Feinherb.
Produced with white grapes from the same old vineyard as the Procura Tinto, the Procura Branco is a wine they have produced since 2013. Susana Esteban wanted to produce a white that would age for a very long time in bottle and thought it could be done wit...