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This is the new Romorantin, decidedly not what was generally found a generation ago (which tended to be an acid, austere wine often with oxidative notes), let alone what can be found today among the natty producers (likewise oxidative). This cuvée has a remarkable nose, akin to high-toned Riesling for some and Loire Chenin for others—a dense wine with layers of flavors reminiscent of apricots and baked apples and other autumn fruits. Bracing, lifted, long, and altogether distinctive. Vines average 35 years of age; the wine is raised in tank on its fine lees and bottled in the spring following harvest, usually before malolactic has a chance to take place
VINEYARDS & VITICULTURE Henry decided to replant these exceptional ancient Romorantin ungrafted vines on an untouched parcel in 2007, next to the old-vine plot planted in 1850, with the first harvest in September 2010.
SOILS Perruches soils: flinty clay with small amounts of sand and gravel
HARVEST & VINIFICATION The grapes are manually harvested and 100% destemmed. After pellicular maceration, the juice ferments in tanks with native yeast. No malolactic fermentation is used in order to preserve freshness. The wine then ages in stainless steel tanks until bottling in the spring following harvest
It might be delicate but the 2020 Le Haut-Lieu Moelleux is also rather
succulent, coating the mouth with its sweet embrace. A combination of
white flowers and nectarine creates an appealing perfume. There's a sense
of energy that runs through the wine,...
There are many shouty wines in the world, but the 2020 Le Mont Moelleux
is understated, which is highly attractive. There's finesse and elegance to
this sweeter style (49g/L). Delicate exotic characters such as dried papaya
and pineapple sit alongside ...
The 2022 Clos du Bourg Demi-Sec is round and appealing, akin to a cozy
night in with your slippers on; there's flesh and succulence, but it retains
its shape and a sense of lightness on its feet. The ripeness of white stone
fruit reminds me of nectarin...
The 2022 Le Haut-Lieu Demi-Sec is juicy, though never generous, but still a
comforting Vouvray that remains focused; there's sufficient tension from
the acidity despite the season's warmth. Welcoming and friendly from the
off, there's fine fruit here w...
The 2022 Le Mont Demi-Sec is less fruity and charming than, say, Clos du
Bourg; its tension and line come from its flinty terroir. Despite its 21g/L
residual sugar, it retains a sense of tautness without being totally linear.
Radish and pear notes ling...
The 2003 Vouvray Le Mont Moelleux Première Trie shows a brillant dark golden color with apricot-yellow reflections. Very clear, intense and elegant on the nose, where coffee, toast, brioche, nougat and flinty flavors intertwine with super ripe apricot, l...
