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And variety is everything, so I wouldn’t fill my island cooler with\u0026nbsp;\u003cem\u003ejust\u003c/em\u003e\u0026nbsp;Jean Foillard’s Beaujolais-Villages. But this kind of red makes you suspend reason for a moment and devote yourself to it, at least while the wine’s still in your glass.\u003cbr /\u003e\u0026nbsp; \u0026nbsp; \u0026nbsp;After all, Beaujolais-Villages has no business being this good, but Jean Foillard is an extraordinary vigneron. A decade or so ago, Jean made Beaujolais Nouveau that he would expedite to us each November to meet the deadline of the worldwide Nouveau celebration. That Nouveau was outstanding and he didn’t\u0026nbsp;need\u0026nbsp;to change anything, but he had an epiphany that only the most ambitious sort of grower has: the grapes he was using were of high enough quality to make a cuvée with more depth and complexity, so he proposed taking his time to produce a Beaujolais-Villages instead of a hurried Nouveau.\u003cbr /\u003e\u0026nbsp; \u0026nbsp; \u0026nbsp;Blending grapes from high-elevation, granite-heavy terroirs barely outside the region’s crus, and with a patient\u0026nbsp;élevage\u0026nbsp;that’s very close to that of his world-class Morgons, this wine is silky and seductive, with notes of rose petals, red fruit, pomegranate, and stones. 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“Lo Sang del Pais” translates as “the blood of the countryside” and one can easily feel the life-force of this wine. The grape bunches are hand harvested and after being de-stemmed they are fed into fermentation tanks using gravity flow. The “cuvaison” lasts 21 days with the juice being pumped over the cap during the first 6 days. The wine is aged for 6 months in large oak and chestnut barrels which range in age up to 200 years old. The wine has a bright violet color and aromas of wild red fruit and pepper which follow through on the palate with freshness and vibrancy.
The full-bodied 2022 Gigondas Cuvée Tradition 1871 is a total delight.
Succulent red fruits mingle with floral tones and a pinch of dried herbs.
Smooth tannins and bright acidity neatly structure this silky-textured
Gigondas, which culminates with a co...
A dark, inky version, with a brooding core of black raspberry and cassis underscored by salt, iron and bread. Firmly structured, with sanguine notes of herbs, saucisson and smoke that show real power. The finish is held taut by muscular yet refined black ...
This is aromatically similar to the Les Plantes but with a hint of poached plum that lurks in the background. The super-sleek and almost aggressively mineral-driven middleweight flavors don't have the same power but they are finer, all wrapped in a lacy, ...
The 2023 Morgon Cuvée Corcelette comes from well-drained granite
soils and is aged for nine months in used barrel. It has a perfumed
bouquet of incense that blossoms with aeration, as touches of brown
spice infuse the red fruit. The palate is medium-bo...
Every so often, I take a sip of a “humble” regional wine that makes me question everything. With a glass of this in hand, I think to myself, who cares about grand cru Burgundy? Or, why would I ever drink anything else? Or, surely this is the bottle I’d choose to fill my cooler with if I were stranded on a desert island. When I’m able to think rationally again, of course I’d pounce on a bottle of Taupenot-Merme’s grand cru Corton Rognet or the Perret family’s majestic Condrieu I write about in this month’s newsletter. And variety is everything, so I wouldn’t fill my island cooler with just Jean Foillard’s Beaujolais-Villages. But this kind of red makes you suspend reason for a moment and devote yourself to it, at least while the wine’s still in your glass. After all, Beaujolais-Villages has no business being this good, but Jean Foillard is an extraordinary vigneron. A decade or so ago, Jean made Beaujolais Nouveau that he would expedite to us each November to meet the deadline of the worldwide Nouveau celebration. That Nouveau was outstanding and he didn’t need to change anything, but he had an epiphany that only the most ambitious sort of grower has: the grapes he was using were of high enough quality to make a cuvée with more depth and complexity, so he proposed taking his time to produce a Beaujolais-Villages instead of a hurried Nouveau. Blending grapes from high-elevation, granite-heavy terroirs barely outside the region’s crus, and with a patient élevage that’s very close to that of his world-class Morgons, this wine is silky and seductive, with notes of rose petals, red fruit, pomegranate, and stones. With just the right amount of tannin and acidity, and lots of class, it is perfect for all occasions.
It was a first for me, as I had never tasted wines from this estate before, and the 2022 Gigondas is a real surprise—an outstanding wine. It evokes aromas of ripe dark berries, spices, garrigue and subtle earthy undertones, with a hint of smoke and licori...