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This new special cuvée, launched for this biodynamic winery's 20th anniversary, is a finessed and beautiful bottling from vines on the estate's Greywacke river stones. Wild fermented, with time on lees in old Austrian oak and minimal sulfur, it's bright, ...
The 2022 Waimaunga Pinot Noir is concentrated and textural, with a complex array of cherries, garden roses, crushed shells and sweet tobacco leaf. There is also graphite, star anise and shaved fennel—a distinctly minty/metallic glean through the finish. T...
Halfway between Bordeaux and Montpellier, Cahors is as close to the Mediterranean as it is to the Atlantic Ocean. And while this commune is technically part of the Occitanie region—which encompasses the Languedoc wine region—the red wine this AOC produces is arguably a nearer relative to those of Pomerol and Saint-Émilion than it is to those from the great Languedocien villages. For decades, Philippe Bernède of Clos La Coutale has farmed Malbec and Merlot just south of the Lot River. Following harvest, he de-stems the grapes and vinifies each parcel separately before blending the wine and aging it in foudres and old grand cru Bordeaux barrels. The result presents a thrilling paradox: this age-worthy red displays both refinement and rusticity. If Bordeaux is the polished and urbane one in the family, Cahors is the sneakily sophisticated, but humbler country cousin, loaded with personality you’ll enjoy getting to know
The eponymous red 2021 Clos Mogador fermented with some 30% full clusters trying to give it more freshness (but without noticing the stems) with a long maceration (40 to 50 days) and (almost) no punching down, with less extraction. There's been a progress...
Ihaven’t experienced deep winter on the Mediterranean coast, but if I had to guess, I imagine it’s similar to what we experience here in Berkeley—clear blue skies and brisk air, some rain and fog, and the occasional frost or dusting of snow on the coast mountain peaks. (I can imagine eyes rolling in the Midwest and Northeast.) Due to an extended aging on the lees, the Bel-Arme has the added depth and roundness for a bracing winter day. With a touch of creaminess following the crisp stone fruit, it’s a Mediterranean white in a cashmere sweater.
