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It is wonderful to be able to rely on a bottle of red wine, year in and year out, as we do with Bruno Laboucarié’s blend of old-vine Grenache, Carignan, and Syrah from Corbières. To see the bottle there on your counter or resting in your wine rack, and know with confidence that it is ready to offer up its pure, sun-kissed mélange of dark red fruit, baking spices, and earthy minerality is a small, luxurious comfort amid the hurly-burly of daily life. This kind of consistency over just a few vintages is notable, but we’ve been importing Domaine de Fontsainte’s wines since 1978! Few values can match that track record.
The domaine farms ten acres in this high elevation appellation just southwest of Morgon. The vines are all head-pruned (as are all of the domaine's Gamay), average 50 years and grow on a steep, south-facing hillside of sandy granitic soil. The grapes are de-stemmed but not crushed, and ferments are spontaneous. The élevage is a relatively short one of six or so months in concrete vats, making for an especially exuberant wine of crisp red berry fruit. Production averages 1,670 cases.
This is aromatically more complex but also more reserved with its nose of warm earth, poached plum, violet and softly sauvage nuances. There is good power and punch, if only average density, to the muscular and lightly stony medium weight flavors that dis...
Enough wood to notice is present on the attractively spicy nose featuring notes of red cherry, raspberry, plum, violet and a suggestion of soft earth. The succulent but super-sleek and well-detailed medium weight flavors exude a bracing minerality on the ...
Discreet wood can be found on the equally floral-suffused aromas of ripe yet cool red berries, kirsch and rose petal. The wonderfully sleek, detailed and overtly mineral-driven medium weight flavors are akin to rolling a small pebble around in the mouth o...
The 2019 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Malconsorts has turned out brilliantly. Mingling aromas of blackberries and cassis with hints of orange rind, rose petals, licorice, sweet spices and loamy soil, it's full-bodied, ample and multidimensional, with a deep ...
Mourchon's very talented winemaker, Sébastien, is a Gigondas native and knows everyone in the village. A few years ago, I mentioned to him that I wished Mourchon made a Gigondas, and he told me he'd be happy to craft one for us using a secret source from one of his vigneron friends. I thought he was joking—until a sample arrived. Fantastic stuff! And he still won't tell me where he sources it from... It's obviously someone very good.
