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The 2022 Spätburgunder Nieder-Flörsheimer Frauenberg Grosses
Gewächs opens with smokiness that wraps itself around crunchy red
cherry. A riper tone plays on the nose, but the palate melts into a veil
of translucent, pure, bright fruit, held in a ne, si...
The Goldberg vineyard has the highest elevation of Vienna's Oberlaa district, and Alex's ""Laaerberg"" parcel comes from a sunny south-facing exposition that overlooks the Vienna Central Cemetery and has a unique terroir of black earth with limestone-rich loam on top, with ice-age gravel and a high iron content after 20cm deep. Planted to 80+ year-old vines with a mix of 13 different varieties, pressed over 24-hours on the lees, then fermented spontaneously in large Stockinger foudres. The vibrant golden color and lively quince, yellow fruit, and citrus aromas frame a full-bodied white with tons of spice, persistent acidity (5,9 g/L) and a long terroir-driven finis
This is 100% Orangetraube and confusingly this is NOT an orange wine… it is, however, rare* and comes with quite the backstory. Although recognised in the official ‘Lexicon of grape varietals’ by August Wilhelm von Babo (cracking name) in 1954 and cultivated across Germany and Austria it’s not on the official register of permitted varieties for the DAC Vienna. Because it’s not on the register they have to shorten its name on the label to ‘Orange T’ and they can’t print the vintage… you’ll be able to identify this from the lot number. Orangetraube is closely related to the Traminer family and the wine shows intense peach and apricot notes with a light touch of honeysuckle sweetness..
The Grand Cru dry wines of Weiser-Künstler are among the most cerebral dry Rieslings made in the Mosel. They are wines of meditation, wines that seem to have something more to do with distillates or teas made from stone, ore and flower. They have very little easy fruit to hang one’s hat on. In other words, they are among the most thrilling wines from this fabled place.
The 2022er Enkircher Steffensberg Im Löwenbaum Riesling Spätlese was made from fruit harvested at 87° Oechsle on old vines still trained on single pole in this prime Lieu-Dit at the heart of the Steffensberg and was fermented down to sweet levels of residual sugar (62 g/l). The wine offers a still rather backward nose made of pear, vineyard peach, apricot, cream, and spices. The wine develops the characteristic “orange-tangerine” touch on the palate which adds depth to the creamy and nicely zesty experience. The overall balance is one of subtle elegance and depth with a nice kick of zest to lift the flavors in the finish.
The 2023er Enkircher Ellergrub Riesling Spätlese was made from fruit harvested at 92-93° Oechsle on largely un-grafted vines still trained on single pole and was fermented down to sweet levels of residual sugar (68 g/l). It immediately captures one’s attention as it reveals a comparatively rich and aromatic nose of fine exotic fruits, honey, fresh pineapple, William pear, acacia, mirabelle, plum, and cinnamon. The wine coats the palate with some juicy and slightly honeyed fruits yet leaves a fresh and nicely focused and refreshing long finish. There is good extract and presence, without any undue power. The aftertaste still needs to integrate its sweetness, which will happen in a decade or more
This could be one of the most salty and incisive dry Rieslings of the vintage. This is a village-level wine for the ages, Bone dry at just 10% alcohol and 1g of Residual Sugar
The 2020er Enkircher Ellergrub Riesling Spätlese was made from fruit harvested at 96° Oechsle on largely un-grafted vines still trained on single pole and was fermented down to sweet levels of residual sugar (77 g/l). it offers a subtly exotic nose made of apricot, melon, cassis, passion fruit, smoke, and a hint of almond. The wine develops the smooth yet racy intense presence of an Auslese on the palate and leaves one with a still rather sweet feel in the melon infused finish. This gorgeous subtly apricot-infused and creamy wine now just needs a few years of patience in order to firm up and deliver its goods.
