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The 2024 Riesling Graacher Domprobst Kabinett still has a vestige of
reductive flintiness on the nose. Green melon shimmers with citrus.
Supreme fusion of flavors and absolute lightness define the palate. Juicy
nectarine dances above slaty saltiness, c...
The 2022 Riesling Bockenauer Felseneck Kabinett is from the poor
slate-based soils because Fröhlich believes that slate and Kabinett go
together. It was harvested across three terraces where the vineyard
turns a corner towards the southwest. It benefit...
The 2022 Riesling Bockenauer Felseneck Spätlese Goldkapsel is always
from the poor, rocky parcels of the Felseneck. "For us, Goldkapsel
always signifies the most filigree Spätlesen," says Tim Fröhlich. “When
we decide what Goldkapsel is, it is the fine...
The 2022 Riesling Bockenauer Felseneck Grosses Gewächs is made
from vines between 60-65 years old, Fröhlich’s site with the highest
average vine age. The nose has an exotic notion that flickers somehow
between pineapple and lemon. The palate is super-l...
Felsenberg and half Bockenauer Stromberg, from the vines that do not
quite make it into the GGs. Slight smoke spells some reduction, with
wet stone only adding to that smokiness. Precision, minerality, poise
and purity are all evident in this sleek pac...
The 2023 Riesling Bockenauer Felseneck Grosses Gewächs 2022, from
blue Devonian slate, has immediate spice and slate savor, like citrus
squeezed on dry stone—fragrant, lifted, soaring. The palate is as ne
as a exible blade, sharp and precise. Nothing h...
The 2023 Riesling Oestricher Lenchen Kabinett brims with apple
blossom, green apple and lemon on the nose. These notions duly
appear on the palate, where they are made even livelier with lemon.
Gentle sweetness makes this exquisitely juicy; the 45 g/L ...
The Palmberg is Stein’s “Grand Cru” and a vineyard to measure against any other vineyard in the Mosel, period. It is an awesome site, an ancient wall of vines filled with ungrafted plantings that are 90+ years old. The Palmberg is cut on one side by a stream, so the vineyard angles away from the Mosel. In former times this was likely a liability, the cool wind pouring down the valley and the distance from the river keeping optimum ripeness in all but the top vintages just beyond grasp. This is no longer an issue and these cooler vineyards, especially when they have old vines, are a massive asset. This wine is ruthless, cut, mineral, fresh and phenolic. It is quite simply one of my favorite wines of this vintage and it will age, easily, for 10-20+ years.
“Weihwasser” meaning Holy Water, from vines in the St. Aldegunder Klosterkammer vineyard near the old church in Alf. Barely off dry with salty lemon, pear and extremely high drinkability. This is a PERFECT old school feinherb as they used to be made, low in alcohol and disappears in the glass before you know it.
