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At the very end of a long tasting, winemaker Leto Paraskevopoulos offered me a small glass of the Gai'a NV Nemea Ritinitis Nobilis, and the effect was brilliant. The wine refreshed and immediately reset my palate. This is a "redefined" Retsina, or a wine ...
The 2020 Soave Classico La Froscà is smoky with pungent florals and
hints of tropical peach. This is round and enveloping, balanced by a
core of saline-minerals and zesty citrus-tinged acids with vivid green
apple fruits. It finishes long and lightly s...
A minerally white, fresh and lightly chalky in texture, offering an appealing range of ripe green apple and pear fruit flavors, with details of honeysuckle, pickled ginger and salty minerality. Drink now. 9,000 cases made, 500 cases imported.
A luscious white centered by a bitter-edged mineral core, which brings focus and tension to creamy apricot, lychee and peach flavors. A ripe, full-bodied version, with dried green herbs and white tea splaying out on the persistent finish. Drink now throug...
The Upper Mosel has nothing to do with Riesling and nothing to do with slate. Instead, we find limestone. The Upper Mosel in fact represents the beginning (or the end?) of the Paris Basin, the geological reality that informs places like Chablis and Sancerre. Instead of Riesling, in the Upper Mosel we find a winemaking culture based on one of Europe’s oldest grapes: Elbling. It’s important to understand that Elbling here feels like something of a religion. It’s a culture, a regional dialect that is spoken through this wine of rigorous purity, of joyous simplicity, of toothsome acidity. The joy of Elbling is the uncompromising vigor and energy, the raucous and super-chalky acidity. Matthias Hild, who farms about six hectares in the sleepy town of Wincheringen, told me that back in the 1980s, when he’d have an Elbling clock in at less than 8.5 grams acid, he’d taste it and question if it was Elbling at all. Which is sort of like saying you’re not sure the music is loud enough because your ears aren’t bleeding.
Vines for the Sekt are from within 4km of Wincheringen. After harvest the Sekt goes through a 21-day cold fermentation in stainless steel. After malolactic fermentation the wine is stored on it’s lees for 9-18 months until disgorgment. Dosage is 10-12g/L.
The 2023 Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Honivogl was harvested partly in
the loess-dominated Axpoint vineyard, with the majority coming from
the rockier foot of the Singerriedel site. Alluring fruit on the nose
combines juicy yellow apple, freshest green pea...
The 2022 Le Mont Demi-Sec is less fruity and charming than, say, Clos du
Bourg; its tension and line come from its flinty terroir. Despite its 21g/L
residual sugar, it retains a sense of tautness without being totally linear.
Radish and pear notes ling...